She Cycles by the Seashore

Lights -- Not Cool, but Necessary

I get the feeling that some serious cyclists think that headlights and tail lights are Not Cool. However, having the bumper of an SUV up your back tire because the driver cannot see you riding towards home in the dark is Infinitely Not Cooler. The hospital gown and time spent recuperating from a resulting bike accident are Beyond The Pale.

If you are trying to get in short rides in the early morning before work, or early evening after you get home from work (or maybe you commute) at this point in the season, chances are part of that ride is going to be in semi-darkness. We've gotten caught a few times in the dark, particularly on our own street where there are no streetlights and a nasty railroad track to navigate. I've been nagging Mr. Suitcase to investigate bike lighting, even if he only wants to put it on my girl bike. Girls are much more sensible that way, right?!

Trouble is, I can't find any good information on bike lights. Cycling Plus (a UK magazine) had a feature on different headlights last year, including photos demonstrating the strength of beam of each, but some of the lights aren't available here in the US. Bicycling magazine also featured some lights in an article last October, but neither one really explained the basics: what are the main things to look for? What are the different categories of lighting, and what are good selections for each price range?

We stopped in a local bike shop last weekened, and here is what I've been able to discern so far: Under $100 LED lights are generally powered by AA batteries. The price tends to determine their strength of beam and battery power. Some only allow you to be seen by cars, others will help you to see the road ahead. These lights tend to be easy to install (and have easy removal for those who feel they are uncool and don't want to be caught with them on the bike during daytime). The over $100 lights can be Halogen, are more complicated to install, and have a battery thing that sits in the water bottle cage. I *think* these are more useful to MTBers who spend hours in a race or ride in the dark, as opposed to those of us just caught unprepared by how fast the sun is going down lately (sob).

From what I saw in my LBS, I think we're going to go with the CatEye HL-EL530. It seems to be the brightest that Cateye makes. We'll get a corresponding tail light too. But please let me know what you're using, if you like it, and also if you can recommend any magazine articles or online reviews that would help!

Bike Fit & Saddle Relief

I have become a true believer.

On Saturday, I went up to Cycling Concepts for my first bike fit. My sweet husband suggested this when I started to complain that my saddle was less than comfortable. At the time, it seemed excessive -- all I wanted was for someone to show me a different saddle that I could switch out for the one that came with Grace. After having this done, however, I believe that *everyone* should get their bike fit to their personal body proportions. You will risk great misery if you don't.

Keith used the Fit Kit to take lots of measurements, and he asked lots of questions regarding the type of riding I do and the plans that I have for this year (a century). Here are some photos showing Keith measuring my arms, shoulder width, inseam, etc.

Once the measurements were taken, Keith had me sit on my bike and pedal, and then he took more measurements:

We discovered that my saddle was too high, and the handlebar stem was too long. After lowering the saddle and switching out the stem, I was no longer reaching so far for the handlebars, which I'd assumed was just part of the process of switching to a road bike from a hybrid bike. All of the geometry changed, and now my knees, hips, and shoulders were in the proper alignment. But that saddle still hurt. So...

Hate.

Keith works his magic.

Love.

I am much more excited now about riding my bike, since I don't feel so unstable, like I'm teetering off the top of it. I'm more hopeful that I can achieve my long distance goals without getting mightily sore or messing up my knees in the process. So, if you are experiencing any discomfort whatsoever on your bike, race, do not spin, to Cycling Concepts if you are near central CT, or to any bike shop near you that offers a professional fitting service. And if I needed further proof that I was in the right place, I saw this on the wall:

Like I said, I am a true believer. :)

Saddles

After riding my road bike a little over a month, I'm becoming less comfortable in the saddle. My 50+ miles are all on the indoor trainer, and I'm usually riding for 30-50 minutes a session. I feel as if I'm sliding forward, and when I lean over to hold on to the handlebars (as opposed to sitting up straight, not holding on), it's particularly uncomfortable.

Fuji bikes come with their own saddle, as opposed to a name brand like Selle or Terry. Perhaps this is the problem -- I don't believe they are leaders in saddle fit and technology. Another problem could be improper fit on the bike itself. If the saddle is too high or is angled up or down, that could also cause discomfort. I've been reading some of the posts on the forums at Team Estrogen and the Velo Bellas, and it seems that lots of riders have this experience. Some try lots of saddles before they find one that works for them.

This coming Saturday, I'm going to meet with someone at a not-so-local bike shop that is known for its fitting services (scroll down for cool photos). They have a fit kit and the staff attend seminars to continually improve their knowledge, to make sure cyclists have a positive experience on their bikes. This will ease my mind, knowing that the bike is adjusted to my particular measurements and knee/foot quirks (we all have them).  If I do need a new saddle, I'll be able to make a more informed purchase. I keep thinking that my first big organized ride, the NYC Five Boro, is coming up soon, and 40 miles on an uncomfortable saddle is just too many. What are your experiences? Do you have a saddle that you'd recommend?

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The new issue of Bicycling is now available, and it is a buying guide for the 2007 bicycles. If you are looking for recommendations for a new ride, check it out. There is a special section for women's bikes too.

Cycling Computers

In a recent post, I talked about heart rate monitors and how they can help you work smarter, not harder, and measure your efficiency while on the bike. Today I'm going to tackle the subject of cycling computers.

Similar to a pedometer that walkers and runners use, cycling computers can be as simple or as complex as you want them to be. Typically, they measure current, average, and maximum speeds, and current and total distance in miles. Some measure the current and total time in the saddle. Some also measure cadence, which is helpful when following training programs that use this as a measure of output. Others have a heart rate monitor built into them. Some are wired, and some are wireless.

The more advanced computers, and those that are wireless, will cost more than those that give basic speed & distance readouts. Cat Eye computers are a good example of this. Their Vectra (wireless) costs about $30 and will tell you current speed, maximum speed, and trip distance. It also has an odometer and a clock. The next level up will give your current speed, trip distance, average speed, maximum speed, elapsed time, and more, for about $40. It also includes a clock. The most advanced model is over $100 and includes all the functions of a heart rate monitor plus all the functions of a more advanced cycling computer.

If you are new to cycling, a basic cycling computer will be more than adequate. I do recommend the wireless models, as they are much easier to install and will not ruin the look of your bike with wires along the downtube or fork. Also, they are easier to change out, should you decide to upgrade as you become more experienced.

My hybrid bike has a basic computer (at left), which I used for my first charity ride last fall, of 40 miles. It helped motivate me to keep going when I faced those final hills and was ready to call it a day.

My new road bike, Grace, is what I'm going to ride for the century I want to do at the end of this summer. I'll be spending a lot more time on her this season, with a more organized training program, so I chose to get a more sophisticated computer for her, the Cat Eye Double Wireless Cycling Computer. I opted not to get one with the heart rate monitor, since I have a separate heart rate monitor that seems to work fine.

If you purchase your cycling computer from a bike shop, they can install it for you, but it is not very hard to do it yourself. For the wireless models, there are four components you will attach to your bike: the computer, two magnets, and a sensor.

Here is the box I picked up from my bike shop:

The first thing you will do is to loosely attach the sensor (the silver piece) to the chain stay with removable tape. Then you attach the circular magnet to the wheel spoke, and the ovalish magnet to the inside of the crank arm. Once these three pieces are loosely in place, you want to line things up, according to the manual, so that the black cadence "arm" on the sensor can pick up signals from the magnet on the crank arm, and the sensor can also pick up signals from the magnet on the wheel spoke:

Once these items are lined up with each other, you can secure them with the plastic ties that are included in the box.

Next, you attach the handlebar mount to your handlebars with a small screwdriver, and you clip the cyclocomputer inside:

Of course, the manual will give you more specific instructions and diagrams pertaining to your particular model. This is just to give you an idea of the different parts, and how they work together. Although I've put several links to the Cat Eye computers on Amazon, they and other brands are available through catalogs such as Performance Bicycles, Bike Nashbar, and your local bike shop.

As a beginner and reforming Luddite, I record the numbers from my training sessions in a blank journal. If you are more technologically inclined, you can create your own Excel chart, or take advantage of the free software out there too. The most basic rule for training is not to ride more than 10% of the previous week's mileage total. If you've recorded 20 miles for your first week, for example, the next week you should not ride more than 22 miles. This is why having the computer, and keeping track of your numbers, is so important.

For those who love their gadgets, and want jump in both feet first to the GPS/heart rate monitor/cycling computer phenomenon, see Knittin' Kitten and Suitcase of Courage to learn about the Garmin edge. You can record your rides, map them, and even race against yourself with dot races!

In other news:

Tour of California starts on Sunday!! If you have the Versus channel, be sure to note the racing coverage. If you are like me and are without cable, you can also watch clips via Versus' website, and on worldcycling.tv.com. You can get daily audio coverage via The Fredcast.

California cyclists -- the Floyd Fairness Fund has two events planned, Sunday, Feb. 18 in San Francisco, and Wed. Feb. 21 in San Jose. Please go out and support last year's T of C winner!

Heart Rate Monitors

One piece of equipment that a new cyclist should consider is a heart rate monitor. Whether you are riding to lose weight, train for a specific ride, or simply enjoy gadgets that will measure your progress, the heart rate monitor will help you to build fitness more efficiently. You won't burn yourself out working too hard and end up hating cycling before you even start.

The watch-like device on the left of my bike is the heart rate monitor (I'll talk about the Cat Eye, in the center of the photo, in a later post). You can put this on your bike or on your wrist. The other piece (not pictured) is the chest strap, which communicates your heart rate to the "watch." Many companies make heart rate monitors. I am far from an expert on the different brands. I believe Polar is the most popular, but whichever you feel comfortable with is the one to get. Some cycling computers and GPS units include heart rate monitor functions too.

The first thing you need to do is to determine your maximun heart rate, but finding that out is tough - and if you're not used to heavy physical exercise, it can be dangerous.  The old "220 minus your age" formula isn't very precise, but it will be more than adequate if you're just starting out.  If you'd like a more sophisticated formula, you can find one here.

Once you calculate your maximum heart rate, you take percentages of it to determine the different training zones, aka how hard your heart is working. You can use the heart rate monitor when you ride to make sure you stay in those zones. If you work too hard, you won't build a good fitness base, and you'll quickly tire and be discouraged.

Let me use my maximum heart rate, 184, as an example.

Zone 1= 60-65% MHR = 110-120 beats per minute (bpm), easy riding

Zone 2 = 65-70% MHR = 121-130 bpm, endurance base training

Zone 3 = 70-80% MHR = 131-147 bpm, aerobic base training

Zone 4 = 80-85% MHR = 148-156 bpm, lactate threshold (aka Anaerobic Threshold) training

Zone 5 = 85%+ MHR = 157+ bpm, maximum aerobic training

These zones can also be described using a "talking index," which measures perceived exertion:

Zone 1 = converse normally

Zone 2 = short breath needed in between sentences

Zone 3 = deep breath needed in between sentences

Zone 4 = deep breath needed every few words

Zone 5 = unable to converse

I am using the 7-week Cycling for Fitness book by Chris Sidwells for my winter training, but any training program you use will probably start with something like "Warm Up by pedaling to 60-70% of your maximum heart rate." As I pedal, I watch the heart rate monitor. For the first ten minutes of the thirty minute ride, my heart rate should not exceed 130 bpm, or I am working too hard. The next portion of the ride might say something like "Pedal at 70-80% MHR for 10 minutes." Again, I watch the monitor and keep the number between 131-147 bpm. During the last ten minutes, I'll slow my heart rate back down to 60-70% MHR. I can get off the bike feeling as if I've worked out, without wanting to pass out. :)

One last hint that you're only going to get on a site for female cyclists: heart rate monitors, or at least the chest strap portions of them, were definitely invented by male scientist/athletes. As tight as you might adjust that strap, you may find that it creeps down your midsection, due to, shall we say discreetly, competition for space with female undergarments. :) But fear not...if you find that this is a problem for you, one of our cycling sisters (I just know it has to be a sister) has invented this.

Please share your experiences/suggestions/recommendations for using your heart rate monitor in the comments below...I'd love to hear from you!

Edited to add: The January 2007 issue of Cycling Plus has a great article on how to use a heart rate monitor, and reviews of popular models. Though it is a U.K. magazine, you can usually find it (a month behind) in Borders or Barnes and Noble.

Grace, My Fuji Finest 2.0

Here is Grace, my new bike. She is a Fuji Finest 2.0, ordered last fall, delivered and picked up on January 11. It's still too cold where I live to take her outside for more than a photo, so we've been spending our evenings together with the CycleOps trainer in the basement!

This is my first road bike, and I'm still getting used to her. She is a WSD, or Women's Specific Design, bike. As I understand it, most bikes that you see in shops are "unisex" and can be adjusted to fit male or female riders. WSD bikes, on the other hand, have certain design modifications specifically for women riders: narrower handlebars to accomodate our narrower shoulders, shorter reach between the handlebars and brake levers, smaller stem height, wider saddle. There may be others, depending on the manufacturer, but these are the most common. A good fit, and therefore a comfortable ride, is key to being able to spend hours in the saddle and not being too sore afterwards! Here are some articles with more information on proper fitting:

http://www.bicycling.com/article/0,6610,s1-3-11-14038-1,00.html

http://www.fujiwomen.com/the-cyclopedia/

http://www2.trekbikes.com/us/en/WSD/WSD_Difference.php

Here are some companies that sell WSD bicycles:

Bianchi

Cannondale

Fuji

Giant

Orbea

Scott (also this one)

Terry Bicycles

Trek

I'm sure there are others, but these were the most commonly available in the shops I visited.

A word of caution: perhaps it is the area where I live, but 1)there were few shops that carried demo bikes for women, and 2) there were few shops that employed female sales staff. This made it pretty difficult to try out the different brands, which is the very best way to find your dream bicycle. One company, I was told, doesn't send demos of their women's bikes to the shops, even though they have a huge marketing campaign aimed toward women riders. They, and another company, apparently have traveling vans that go across the country from bike shop to bike shop, with employees doing one-day presentations, and it is at that point that you can get on their new models and ride.  This makes no sense to me, because if you are looking for a new bike after the demo comes to your town, I don't know what they expect you to do to try out the bikes.  My local shop put me on the men's version of one model I was interested in, but that's really not helpful in evaulating fit.

Regarding female sales staff, I found that this was the best way to learn about cycling generally and bikes specifically, by other women who had experience picking out the most comfortable shorts or saddles or shoes. Not to say that some male staff weren't helpful or knowledgeable, because many were. Other times, though, I visited shops with a token female corner display that contained a few jerseys and shorts, but no bikes. When I asked for help, the employee shrugged his shoulders and looked blankly at me. With this type of environment, it's no wonder there are few women who ride or race (as compared to men) -- I often felt as if I was barging in at a men's club.

How did I choose my bike? Well, to be honest, because she was pink! It's my favorite color, and there were only two manufacturers that offered pink this year, Fuji and Trek. Between the two, Fuji was the best fit for my needs. I'm not advocating this method by any means, but I am such a new rider when it comes to road bikes, that I cannot discern subtle differences between the specs. I figured that almost any WSD bicycle, sized to fit, from a reputable manufacturer, was going to be a good choice to get started. Perhaps as I get more experienced, I'll refine my tastes, and even switch out or upgrade the parts if necessary.

My best suggestions are to do a lot of reading, asking questions, and riding. Most bicycle magazines review women's bikes and gear, and there are lots of on-line reviews available as well. Head over to some of the forums at Team Estrogen and ask other riders what their experiences have been with different models & manufacturers (the discussion about saddles, which can be switched out by your bike shop upon bike purchase, is invaluable!). If you can attend the traveling presentations by some of the bike companies, do that too. But again, the very best way to research a new bicycle is to ride it.